Sealing shouldn't be necessary, and there's a chance any sealer might dull the sparkle from the snow material. This gives a nice layered effect for "regular" non-snow covered ground, and any bare or thin patches in the "grass" show the "dirt" colour underneath.) (To compare - I usually plaster, paint (earth/brown), apply dirt/sand directly to wet paint, then additional layers of ground cover/grass on top of that. the plaster-coated cloth creates a durable hard shell, designed to accept Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, paints, plaster castings and landscape materials easily. Also great for creating hard Shell terrain and for filling in around Rocks. Mix according to the instructions and pour into rock molds to create various formations. (White glue works for most scenery, but mod podge might be better for snow with less chance of yellowing with age.) Woodland Scenics lightweight hydrocal casting plaster has been specifically formulated for terrain model builders and is half the weight of traditional hydrocal. Dilute white glue or mod podge 50% with water and "paint" on with a cheap brush. Scores easily for stone, brick and cobblestone effects. Use it to carve rock faces, bridge abutments, piers and other custom terrain and structure formations. If you choose to paint the entire area and apply snow later this is also fine. Carving Plaster - Carving Plaster is a unique plaster with an extended application time and carves easily when dry. This does work but sometimes I find doesn't necessarily give 100% (more like 80-90%) perfect covereage, but in this case should give you the "sparkle" and any bare spots are just showing white anyway and would hardly be noticeable. Since it's snow, you can probably paint it white and sprinkle the "snow" into the fresh wet paint.
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